Sailing the Costa da Morte
With just one week to sail from A Coruña to Ría Muros, the most Northern of the Rías Baixas and back against the prevailing wind seemed a tall order especially as it had to be fun! Following a unanimous vote to round Finisterre the trio of brothers and brother-in-law set off determined to enjoy themselves come what may. How incredibly generous, some might say "fool-hardy" of the owners, Guy and Mary to let us borrow their precious October Spirit!
Costa da Morte
However,despite its name, this coast is perfectly manageable. Modern weather forecasts and navigation tools make planning a passage along Costa da Morte a simple exercise. The reward is views of a dramatic shore and access to this very remote part of Galicia, beautiful, wild and unspoilt.
Malpica is a feisty port, home to a large fishing fleet and set impressively nestled into the rock. The town is a tourist destination and host to many restaurants.
The islands of Sisargas mark a major headland for the sailor. A seabird sanctuary, the narrow passage between the islands and the coast is rewarding in good weather, possibly with a good lunch break at the anchorage.
The rías of Corme y Laxe and Camariñas offer undeveloped charm and an untouched landscape. It is true that modern construction has destroyed much of the traditional feel of the small towns,
but the space, feeling of remoteness and views more than compensate. There are large quantities of windmills, the result of national energy policy about which you will need to develop your own opinion - renewable energy versus a blot on the landscape.
Finisterre is the headland that has captured the imagination of navigators and land settlers for centuries. Named by the Romans as the end of the world (finis terrae), it often marks the most significant stage of any sailor's journey in this area. The history of Finisterre is celebrated in an Easter festival that combines ancient rituals worshipping the Sun with Christian traditions.
At Ensenada de Corcubíon, the town of Corcubíon retains a traditional feel and the coast is home to some of the most spectacular hórreos, the ancient Galician grain store buildings.
The church of Muxía is a rugged building set on the headland facing the onslaught of the ocean. Visit it during the town festival, and you may enjoy passing under the roca das barcas,a ritual that is supposed to improve your health.
The land of this region remains an unexploited wilderness, with opportunities for travel through beautiful scenery as well as remote and rewarding treks.
A Coruña to Corme
After provisioning we had a late departure at 11:21 in light winds. We faced a long Westerly motor to the islands of Sisarga Grande before turning SW towards Corme.
Stats: 5hr 24min | Av 6.6 kts | Max 12.2 kts
TOTAL: 35.6NM
A Coruña to Corme
Night time in A Coruña - morning shopping then off in light winds.
After leaving at around 11:20 we motored in the light following wind to Sisarga Grande where we elected to pass to the North rather than via the rather hazardous looking narrow and rocky passage between them and the mainland. We were then able to sail SW and round into Corme where we arrived at 16:45. There was no sign of the charted fishing beds in the centre of the bay but we anchored near the shore to the West anyway. After dinghy antics and struggling ashore we found a bar opposite the beautifully anchored OS.
After a few beers we explored the town and found a rather run down looking restaurant, the Miramar that turned out to have very good food which we washed down with an excellent Albariño. This was so good that on first tasting we all looked up and chorused "we'll have another of those please".
We were somewhat concerned by the church clock that chimed (not in pitch though) an almost recognisable Ave Maria every half hour, fortunately this stopped at 22:00 and restarted at 09:00 so a quiet night was had by all.
Corme to Muros
We needed an early departure for the long, sometimes challenging sail past Finisterre and down to the top of the Rías Baixas at Ría de Muros. 10:30 was quite early for us! We had the odd death en route (this is the Costa da Morte) but finally made it to a welcome party at Muros around 18:30.
Stats: 8hr | Av 7.66 kts | Max 11.7 kts
TOTAL: 88.1NM
Corme to Muros
One of the last drone shots!
With some 50 miles to sail we regretted not packing away the dinghy the night before except that it had given Philip a sleepless night by being tied along side. We managed a 10:30 departure in perfect f4 wind and went on to have some beautiful sailing past Finisterre and on to the Ría Muros.
Sent the drone out to inspect the offshore hazard of Los Bruyos and to film October Spirit sailing the Costa da Morte. A slight lack of confidence and an enormous lack of competance coincided with an attempt to land the drone whilst we were travelling at around 8 knots. The drone stopped and flew out of the back, snared the ensign and dropped straight to the bottom of the sea in 45m. Fortunately it was set to record in low quality straight to the iPad so despite losing the full HD images and 4K video on the sd card we could salvage something!
The chart plotter got a bit freaked out by rounding Finisterre so it decided the safest way was cross-country via Corcubíon!
On sailing into the Ría Muros at some speed we were greeted by a Guarda boat, once we had thrown all the illegal drugs and stowaways overboard we made our way as directed into the marina at Muros. As the strong wind was likely to provide some mooring entertainment, an audience had gathered including the fearsome Harbour Master, Pedro who insisted we only spoke Spanish thereby answering his own question demanding to know why we hadn't called ahead on Channel 09 to book a space. The crowd were somewhat disappointed until Philip launched himself onto the pontoon with a sprawling parachute roll whereupon Pedro anounced with a broad grin and in perfect English "welcome to Muros"!
Ashore we stopped for a couple of beers at the regulation 2nd bar you come to. We loved the way they always bring a little snack to have with your beer. We then wandered along the front but mostly one road back looking for a restaurant. We found a bar but no suitable restaurant so ended up in Casa Sampedro on the square by the harbour/marina! Actually not too bad.
Muros to Corcubíon
Now we had to start the slow upwind journey back to A Coruña. Short passages seemed the best way to try so we set off towards Corcubíon at 11:30.
Stats: 5hr 30min | Av 5.3 kts | Max 9.9 kts
TOTAL: 116.7NM
Muros to Corcubíon
A pleasant run downwind out of the Ría Muros
A leisurely departure at 11:30 saw light winds that were due to build but from NNE. After a run down the Ría Muros we rounded up for some upwind passage making.
A few tacks later in building winds, we reached Carrumeiro Chico marking the rocks by the entrance to Ría de Corcubíon. We dropped the sails to motor up against the high winds whistling down the Ría and passed close to the industrial area on the East to avoid the non existent charted fishfarm! Corcubíon is a rather pleasant town on the East with beaches at the head of the Ría but we anchored next to all the moored boats to be near the quay on the West side to access the slipway in the dinghy.
A good bar ashore and a wander up to the church before finding somewhere to eat.
We found the amazing "Crazy Crustacean Restaurant" - aka Degustacion de marisco MercaMaris where everything was alive when we arrived. In the spirit of the Costa da Morte one poor lobster was dispatched along with a few razor clams, scallops and sundry UV filtered shellfish. We were well fed apart from the Cornish pasty that was burnt on the outside and frozen in the middle but the ok Albariño seemed to make up for it.
Review by Paul: Crazy Crustaceans Enthusiastic welcome, including an apparently obligatory tour of the shellfish tanks (tip to proprietors - put a glass of wine in the punters hands before tour to ensure maximum attention and appreciation). Incredibly high quality seafood along with fulsome commentary on same. One black mark was the overcooked and yet cold freebie pastie to start. Overall an original place with fabulous seafood. Highly recommended for adventurous bivalve aficionados
Despite the high winds we had an extremely comfortable night at anchor.
Corcubíon to Camariñas
Although the start to the day looked promising with a good wind and a downwind sail to Finisterre, handling the dead up wind passage after rounding the cape might prove to be tricky.
Stats: 8hr 30min | Av 4.7 kts | Max 11.5 kts
TOTAL: 155.5NM
Corcubíon to Camariñas
Parked up on the last available hammerhead at Camariñas.
Although we set off at 11:00 for a great downwind sail and then across to Finisterre, it turned out to be a bad decision to try to sail all the way upwind in the stronger wind as this involved making very little headway at all after rounding Finisterre. Having had a long and fruitless attempt to get anywhere, we eventually allowed sense to prevail and motor-sailed until we could bear away for a great final sail into Camariñas.
One of the 3 hammerheads was free so we tied up. Paul chatted up a native girl and obtained a key and permission to stay the night (on the pontoon). We popped over for drinks aboard the Swan 40 from Guernsey with Mike, Gavin and Martin aboard before we proceded ashore to explore.
It was great to find a rather nice looking restaurant (Puerto Arnela) which was a Hotel as well. The food smelled great and the ambience was lovely, however it was full up. On a bit further and we found a rather duff restaurant, Villa de Oro where the service was as bad as the food. The scallops were off the shell and didn't seem as fresh as we were used to and the decor and service were lacklustre.
Review by Paul: Villa de horror What a dump. Terrible decor, Blinding light, Idle and surly staff (unless it seems you were related to them in which case they would happily chat for hours while all the other diners died of starvation) Impossible to think of a redeeming feature to this truly shocking place.
A coffee in the Marina bar was rewarded by a rather extraordinary waitress. However that was not enough to make up for a very slappy night. We should really have looked at new marina at Muxía?
Camariñas to Corme
Another late departure at 12:15 in good NE winds that had veered. Could we get some sailing in despite a lot of upwind miles to Corme?
Stats: 5hr 45min | Av 4.3 kts | Max 9.4 kts
TOTAL: 179.9NM
Camariñas to Corme
Back to Corme and favourite bar overlooking the anchorage.
As the wind veered to NE f4 we left at 12:15 immediately sailing under genoa alone. Once we rounded Punta Villoeira we decided to motor upwind until we cleared Punta do Boy and Cabo Veo. Then we had a good sail putting in 2 tacks to arrive in Corme at 18:00. This time there were 3 other yachts anchored including some Belgians and a Manx boat.
Back to our run-down looking restaurant, the Miramar for more good food and our favourite Albariño.
Reviewed by Paul: Miramarvellous Dont be fooled by the unprepossessing exterior - this place delivers excellent ingredients, fabulously cooked in massive portions - no pretensions but a total pleasure.
Corme to A Coruña
An early start at 10:00! Once we had battled upwind to Sisarga Grande we put the sails up and had a fantastic sail back to A Coruña.
Stats: 7hr 50min | Av 4.9 kts | Max 10.8 kts
TOTAL: 218.5NM
Corme to A Coruña
Pillar of Hercules awaiting us in A Coruña.
Our last day of sailing produced a solid NNE wind again. We departed early at 10:00 and sailed with genoa alone for 1/2 hour at 5-6kts. Then we turned NE to motor dead into the wind heading to the North of Sisarga Grande. We got there after a 2 1/2 hours slog and then hoisted the sails to head back for A Coruña. This was probably the best sailing of the week and October Spirit showed off by picking up her skirts and scurrying past the Pilar of Hercules back to her temporary home. At 17:00 we dropped in on a charming Irish man who operated the fuel pontoon at the Marina La Coruña and who cheerfully releived us of hundreds of Euros. With completetly full fuel tanks, we headed to the Marina Real de La Coruña where we parked up.
The last evening meal did not disappoint at Pablo Gallego, just off the main square. We had some Percebes croquettes followed by a delicious spider crab risotto that got better and better as we ate it.
Reviewed by Paul: Galician Smooth A very comfortable and welcoming place with highly attentive wait staff and an excellent menu. Highlights included goose barnacle croquettes and an absolutely delicious spider crab risotto. Difficult to fault on any level. Good value too. Would love to have the chance to go again.
As usual we go to sleep in a quiet, peaceful marina right in the centre of town but, on waking we find that overnight next door they have built a block of flats:
We all three had a fantastic time and spent our last couple of days tending to October Spirit who had looked after us all so brilliantly and preparing her for a few weeks rest before starting all over again...this time with the professionals!
A final shout out to Lavandería Aquamar, Rúa Orillamar, 3, 15001 A Coruña. I turned up at 12:00 as the one working washing machine at the marina had been hard at it since 08:00 and I had 3 sets of bed linen, all my smelly clothes and €100,000s to wash and dry by 14:00 so I could stuff the mattresses and make up the owners suite before heading home. On return I was delighted to engage in a little Galician dancing with the lovely young lady whilst we folded the last couple of sheets and duvets. For all this they only retained one €20 note, a truly beautiful laundrette.